It was 100 weeks ago that I wrote a blog with these numbers the other way round. It definitely doesn’t feel like it has been 700 days since then but time has flown here and I can only just believe that I am almost into my last week in Nigeria. As such, I felt I should try and write one more blog to tell you about what I have done since I last wrote.
Blogs have become more difficult to write during my time here and as the new and exciting experiences have become just run of the mill day to day activities there have been less things for me to write about. I guessed that you didn’t want to hear all the details of my regular routine at work and in other activities so I have saved my blogs for things that have been of particular interest and excitement to me and hopefully they have been interesting to you as well. I wish I had been able to write more often, but I never seemed to make the time, but I hope what I have written has been enjoyable to read.
So, my latest blog-worthy experience has been a trip to the village of Tahir with my friend Titus Turaki. I first met Titus when he taught me and some other missionaries some basic Hausa. Following from that, I have gone on a trip to the remote Donkin Hills with him, preached at his church twice, visited his home in Jos and most recently visited his family home in the village of Tahir. This trip took place at the end of May (note there was nothing blog-worthy at all about England’s campaign in the World Cup in June and July, so this is my latest story albeit a bit late).
So we headed out from Jos on Thursday 27th May with Titus and three of his children ready to make our way to Tahir, which is in southern Kaduna state, about 2 hours away from Jos. The travel went well and we made good progress. We would be on the tar road for about an hour and a half and then on the dirt road for about 30 minutes. After we had passed through Kagoro to we stopped off at Titus’ mother-in-law’s house. We greeted them there and had a rest and they fed us some traditional Kunun and gave us some oranges. The quality of oranges can be hit and miss here and they are definitely not orange in colour. But these oranges, despite being the usual yellow/green colour were the softest, juiciest and sweetest oranges I have tasted throughout my time in Nigeria. They were great and just what we needed to revive us before we headed on the road again. We once more stopped to greet some people at the ECWA DCC headquarters where Titus grew up. Then we headed to the village. When I asked Titus about the dirt road to the village he said it would be ok, but it was only when we turned onto the road that he mentioned that he hoped the rivers would not be too high and that we would be able to cross them without any problems. Although we were not into the main part of the rainy season, there had been quite a bit of rain recently so I was a bit anxious about was lay ahead. Anyway, we made it along dirt road and some of it was smoother than the tar road with its cavernous potholes that we had been driving on. But then we came to the first river.
There was not much water, which was a good thing, but there was also not much, in fact no road at all, to get out the other side of the river. We could tell a herd of Fulani cattle had just passed through as their couple-of-inch-deep hoof prints were still visible in the mud on the other side. I stopped the car and got out to survey the route a little more closely. We planned the best route to take and then went for it. It didn’t work and I managed to get stuck halfway up the bank on the other side. So then we had to change plans. Once I had got the car started again – for some reason it didn’t like it when the underside of the engine was driven into a muddy river bank!! I managed to reverse and then we set about fashioning some sort of road where there was none. Wearing his smart suit, Titus used a traditional hoe to hack away at the river bank to widen the road, then his sons and a helpful achaba driver (who had just stopped to wash his bike in the quiet little river before we came and disturbed him!!) helped to put rocks in the way to get some better traction. Anyway, to cut a long story short, after about 6 attempts we decided we needed more than just the engines horsepower to get through, we would require people power. So, it was all hands to the bumper and off we went. If I hadn’t felt bad about Titus in his suit to start with, I definitely did when this time my wheels span and fired a huge spray of mud and water in the air and onto Titus’ suit. As his children fell about laughing I had a hard job keeping a straight face. What made it worse was that our attempt was unsuccessful. Anyway, we tried again, flattened the road some more, put more rocks and logs on the path and, thanks to the help of a few more motorbike riders who had come along the route and stopped to help, we managed to get through the river and out the other side.
The first attempt!!
Titus in his suit
Making a road!!
One river down, one to go!!
We made our way along the road and then came to the second river.
This looked like a more substantial river and there was more water and the problem this time was likely to be getting across the water part, as the banks were made of rock, but the river bed was sandy. Thanks to being the driver I had managed to keep my feet dry during the last river crossing, but this one might be different. Titus made an investigatory trip paddling across the river and when we couldn’t see his knees we knew that wouldn’t be a good route. Thankfully there was a route that wasn’t as deep and so I readied myself, mentally went through the route I would take and then went for it……. Failure!! Thankfully not engine failure, but crossing failure. I was grounded on the river bed right in the middle of the river. The initial attempt to push the car back to have another go didn’t work so now, my feet did have to get wet.
The view outside the car door. I was going to get wet!!
I took off my shoes and socks and joined everyone else in the river as we discussed what we needed to do. We had to first get rid of all the sand under the car so we could get the wheels to have traction again. This took a while and during that time a few more motorbike drivers, and some that had helped us before, came and assisted us. We eventually managed to clear the sand and shingle out and reverse the car back to the bank for a second attempt. This time we would take a different route across the river and we had people power again. So with the help of Titus, his family and the motorbike drivers we managed to get through the second river.
From then on, the road was pretty smooth as we made it to Tahir village itself. As we arrived, people seemed to be looking at us a little strangely, I think their thoughts were how did they get that car here!! When we got to Titus’ family home there was no one there apart from a few small children. The rest of the family were out at the farm. So we sat around waiting for the family to return. Eventually by about 5.30 the women of the family started to return. They had come back from the farm early to start cooking for the families. Titus’ brother had two wives and then there were a couple of other women married to other relatives. On asking Titus, I found out that all the women cooked food for their own children and for the men. So we sat and watched as the women cooked on their stoves using the rations that they had been given from the family store of grain.
Preparing guinea corn
Eventually the men started to return from the farm and we were able to greet Titus’ brother. We sat and talked and then a dish of food was brought up to us. We sat a bit longer and another dish was brought and then and another and another. All the dishes had pretty much the same thing in it, but each was brought by a different one of the women who had been cooking. It was humbling to be served in this way, but I was thankful when Titus said to just eat whatever I wanted and then they would take the rest back and save it for the next day. So I ate the usual tuo (like thick mashed potato) and soups of various types until I was full. I managed not to make too much of a mess, that I could see anyway as it was pitch black and we only had a small torch between us. I then went to have a wash in the open air wash room before heading to bed. We were sleeping in Titus’ room and had no mosquito nets and it was pretty hot. I was reluctant to put on any mosquito repellent as that makes me ever hotter. I wish I had as I spent the night shooing away mosquitoes and with the heat as well I was glad when the morning came.
The plan for the day was a hike to the dam near the village that supplies water to Abuja. After some Kunun for breakfast, Titus and I headed out on the hike. His family stayed back at the village, they did not want to come to the dam as they had had a bad experience last time when they all got tired out and had to be brought back on motorbikes. It was great to be able to walk through the countryside. The path was good as this route had been the first track made by the engineers when they were beginning to build the dam. It took us a couple of hours to make it to the dam and it was worth the effort. It was very impressive and much bigger than the Lamingo dam that supplies Jos. In fact, the overflow part was bigger than the entire Lamingo dam. It was strange to see this very modern and industrial dam placed in themiddle of this very basic village farming land and even stranger to see Fulani villagers in their traditional dress wander across the dam on their way to the sell their goats at the market. I took a few pictures and we wandered across the dam. We could not go too far though as we did not want to arouse the suspicions of the dam security. Not that we were doing anything wrong, but when they see a white man with a camera they can get a bit suspicious. So we walked off on another a route, across the thankfully empty overflow and back onto the route to the village. On our way back we stopped off at the farm where Titus’ family were farming. I was quite keen to give farming a go, but I didn’t want to ask, as no doubt I would not do as good a job as them and I would probably waste their time. So as they didn’t offer for me to try I didn’t get to have a go. We then headed back to the village.
After resting for a while, Titus and I took another walk up the rock just by the village. It was a relaxing stroll and we were able to sit on the top taking in the view and watching some monkeys that were on the other side of the valley jumping through the trees.
Tahir Village
Then we made our way down back to the village. By this time my thoughts were beginning to focus on the trip back home and on crossing those two rivers again. This was not helped by the fact that the sky was becoming darker as thick black clouds rolled in. If it rained I was afraid we would never make it across the river. When the rain started to pour down I really couldn’t think of anything else. Especially as all we had to do was sit inside Titus’ room and wait for our food to be cooked before then heading to bed. I was really annoyed I hadn’t asked Dustin if I could borrow his truck for the trip, but I didn’t know we would need it. If I had been driving his 4×4 I would have been even more excited about the prospect of driving with all the extra rain, but as it was I was just having visions of flooding the engine and getting stranded in the middle of the river with no way of getting out. Anyway, there was nothing I could do but pray and try to get some sleep.
The morning came and after some more Kunun for breakfast we said our goodbyes and made our way out of the village. This time however we were a bit more prepared. Titus had got his family to send out all the young men ahead of us so they could meet us at the river to assist our passage across. If only we had had this first time. We surveyed the river and although it was a little higher after the rain it was not too bad. So we lined the car up and then everyone helped to push and with a little bit of wheel spin and a lot of effort from the pushers we were across before we knew it. The second river was much the same and we were across that quickly as well.
The river crossing team
The only problem we had now was an awful noise coming from the front left wheel. Along with this noise came difficulty in steering the car. It was as if some gravel had got caught in the disc brakes. So we went a little further and managed to collect some water from a puddle (thankfully it had rained!!!) and we used that to try and wash the dirt out. We didn’t have any joy so we went a bit further to some flat ground where we jacked the car up, removed the wheel and tried again. We got a lot of dirt out, but the problem was still there. There was nothing we could do though apart from put the wheel back on and drive to the main road and try to get some help there. So we struggled along the road, fighting the pull of the wheels to the left. Thankfully though, after about 5 minutes the steering became easier and the noise stopped. That was a relief. However, now steering wasn’t the problem. Well, it was, but turning the steering wheel made no difference to that. The road which had been smooth on the way into the village was now even smoother with slick mud on the top that meant that any attempt to change direction was met with a squirm and a squiggle of the car. I had to drive very slowly and try to keep in the middle of the road so I didn’t go down the ditches at the side. On one occasion the car took on a mind of its own and gracefully pirouetted towards the ditch but thankfully stopped short of entering in completely. So we gingerly made our way along the track until things started to dry out and become more solid and we could speed up. After a tense 45 minutes we eventually made it to the tar road and we were on our way. All my worrying of the last night was wasted and through Titus’ family and the other people who helped we made it back to the relative safety of the tar road. My prayers had been answered.
On the way back to Jos we stopped off at Titus’ mother-in-law’s again. I had asked if there was anywhere we could buy some of the oranges we had had on the way to the village, but instead of buying them they just gave me a bag full of them. I know that hospitality is important in Nigeria, but I am still surprised at the generosity of the Nigerian people. The rest of the journey back to Jos was uneventful and thankfully the car remained in one piece and ran pretty well considering what we had put it through. We got back to Titus’ house as he insisted on washing the car for me and once that was done I was able to head back home. It was an interesting trip and great to be able to see another part of Nigeria and a different type of village life. I just wish I had taken a 4×4!!!
So I now have just over 2 weeks to go before I return to the UK. I am finishing work at the end of this week and then spending the next week and a half, sorting out my things, taking lots of video and pictures of Jos and the hospital, buying souvenirs, saying goodbye to people and trying to get my head around the idea of leaving Jos. So I doubt I will update my blog again before I return home but I will hopefully be able to update a final instalment with my thoughts about the last two years when I get home. I will be spending time with my Mum and Dad and sister in the North-West of England before returning to London around the beginning of September to start work back at Whipps Cross University Hospital on 20th September. So here’s signing off from Nigeria!! 😦