Donkin Hills Trip
Now that’s what I call REAL missionary work
Day 1 – Wednesday 29th April
On Wednesday 29th April I had an early start. I was out of the house and heading to the ECWA headquarters just after the 6am end of the curfew. I was going to meet Titus (my former Hausa teacher) and a number of other people to start the long journey to the east of Nigeria. We met up with the group and managed to assemble relatively quickly and left at about 6.45 on the road out of Jos heading for Bauchi. There were 11 of us all together, including the Director of EMS (Evangelical Mission Society – the mission arm of ECWA), and number of pastors and a group from the Director’s former church in Abuja. Our final destination was to be Donkin Hills in Taraba State where we planned to visit the EMS missionaries working there.
After we had filled up with some fuel at illegally inflated prices (there is a severe fuel shortage at the moment due to tanker driver strikes) we started to make good progress. The van I was in didn’t have the smoothest of rides and there was a definite wobble to the whole van. The advantage of having the director with us though, was that he could make decisions. So, when we got to Bauchi we found a tyre shop and replaced both the rear tyres which were pretty much bald and significantly misshapen. After a stop for drinks and to visit the Bauchi DCC (District Church Council) office we were on our way and there was a significant improvement in the ride as we headed to our next stop at Gombe. On our way we had a stop at the side of the road for breakfast. This consisted of Massa (fried corn meal I think), fried yam and a sort of eggs and tomato sauce. It was actually pretty good and before we knew it we were on the road again.
After another couple of hours or so we made it to Gombe where we picked up another passenger – the North East Area EMS Coordinator. We then did a little bit of shopping. Everyone was being advised to buy some plastic shoes as they might need to wade through water during the visits to the missionaries. I had already bought my hiking boots from home and despite the opportunity declined to buy any shoes. We were then on the road again and this time heading for Jalingo the capital of Taraba state. We travelled through Billiri and the ancient market town of Numan and then headed to Jalingo. The road was awful. It was as if the construction men had been playing hop scotch when they laid the road – there would be a strip of perfectly good road and then they would miss a part out and it would be like being on a rollercoaster with rusty oval wheels. It was so bad that the local boys were taking to trying to fill in the holes and then requesting money for their services. We may have been more inclined to give them some were we not still trying to negotiate our way around the numerous holes they had not been able to fill. Needless to say, this slowed down our progress significantly.
We didn’t actually make it to Jalingo before we turned off the ‘main’ road towards a small town. At the junction we picked up our last passenger – the Taraba DCC EMS Coordinator. We stopped at the small town for some food and by this time it was about 6 pm. This would be our last experience of civilisation for the next 4 days. The next part of the trip was definitely off the beaten track. The last time a group had come to visit the missionaries they had to get achabas (motorbike taxis) along this part of the road. Thankfully, because it is the end of the dry season, we could stay in our bus for the nearly 2 hour journey along this challenging track. To start with road was actually better than the main road to Jalingo but then we came to the first river crossing. There wasn’t much river to cross but we still had to navigate down the steep banks onto the river bed, through the small flow of water and then out the other side. Our bus driver was amazing and managed to negotiate all the obstacles in the way at the first attempt and he even did it more efficiently than the proper 4×4 that the other half of the group were travelling in. After three river crossings and numerous winding turns, bumps and dips we made it to the base camp – Gamfo Mission Station and our home for the night. We piled out of the bus, stretched our legs a bit and then were shown to our sleeping places. I was sharing one of the mud huts with three others in the group and was surprised to be given the comfortable mattress to sleep on. It was now nearly 10 pm and it had been a very long day and despite the strange surroundings I had no trouble getting to sleep.
Day Two – Thursday 30th April
We needed to make an early start as we had a long trek ahead of us. So at 5 am we started to assemble and prepare our things for the road. When the North-East Area EMS Coordinator saw the pack I planned to carry he was horrified. He was sure I would not be able to manage it on the terrain we were going to be tackling and when he saw the boots I had he was even more concerned for my welfare. I thought of the things in my pack and decided there was not anything I would be happy to remove and as for the boots, I definitely wouldn’t be able to survive with the sandals that everyone else was wearing. So I did my best to reassure him and told him I had done quite a lot of hiking at home. He didn’t have much else to say but didn’t seem convinced!! I later found out he continued to worry whether I would be able to make the route. I felt pretty confident I would be ok but I did wonder what the terrain would be like and if I would regret having any of the things in my pack or on my feet. Anyway, we had a quick drink of tea and some bread – yes I did have tea even though I don’t like it, I just thought it would help to keep my fluid level up before I sweated it all out for the rest of day, it didn’t actually taste that bad. So, by 6 am we were on our way to the first mission station up in the hills.
The terrain was pretty easy to start with until we reached the first river. The first in the group just waded through with their plastic shoes but I took a little longer route with a few others and after a few hops from stone to stone I made it across without getting wet. We then started the climb. It was averagely steep but by this time the heat was building up so the group needed regular breaks. We eventually made it over the first couple of hills and then we got to another river. The crossing was under the shade of the trees and so made a great place to rest. I decided to replenish my water supply as I had the chance. I got my Platypus water bag out and was amazed to see it was nearly empty. I had drunk nearly 2 litres already. I had borrowed a water filter from one of the other missionaries and although the water seemed pretty clean I thought I wouldn’t take any risks so set about pumping safe water into my bottle. As I did this the others in the group took the chance to have a wash in the cool pools of water. I decided against doing this as I didn’t fancy getting any of the possible shistosomiasis bugs in the water into my blood stream. These little bugs can cause any number of minor problems and if serious even death. I figured I would be sweating once again in a very short time so it probably wouldn’t make much difference either.
After an hour’s rest and some food we were ready to head on and up. More up-hill walking followed and the group began to spread out as those at the back struggled with the terrain. We continued on up and then eventually at 3pm and after 9 hours of trekking we made it to the first mission station at Donkolung. From a distance you wouldn’t know that anyone lived here at all as the huts are tucked in and around the dense vegetation. There were a couple of huts and a little church and apparently (as I couldn’t really see them) some other clusters of huts dotted around the surrounding hillsides. We met the single male missionary called Pastor Usaini Epeso working there and spent some time resting and talking with him and encouraging him. We were able to give him some small gifts and then by 4pm, much to the dismay of some of the stragglers, we set off again.
We wanted to reach the next mission station so we could spend the night there. We had a fair way still to go and the group once again became spread out on the route. As the time approached 6pm the sun began to disappear behind the mountains and there was a massive thunder storm. It poured with rain and although I had waterproofs I decided I would be just as wet with sweat if I wore them as if I just got wet with the rain. As darkness drew in we had to keep the group closer together so the pace had to slow down and torches were brought out to light the way. More than 4 hours of trekking went by and then we entered onto a flatter area of ground and eventually the mission station was there. This was Bablande and our place for the night. It was about 8.15 and one of the coordinators located the missionaries in their hut and they then set up a fire for us and cooked some food. I wasn’t sure what food they would be cooking but then I heard some clucking from the other side of the hut area and then the clucking stopped. Chicken was on the menu! I didn’t actually feel too hungry and as I could not see how the things were being cooked I decided that rather than risking sickness from dodgy food I would retire to my bed (or sleeping mat anyway). I once again shared a hut with 3 other people and again didn’t have any problems getting to sleep after a tiring day.
Day Three – Friday 1st May
We didn’t have such an early start today and by around 7am people were up and moving about. I got up and packed my things together again. We then had some food prepared for us. It was a form of Kunun apparently made from ground nuts and rice. It was basically like porridge and as it was steaming hot I decided it would be safe to eat. It was definitely filling and just right for the start of another day of trekking. After the kunun we had probably some of the freshest meat I have ever had – the chicken that had been killed last night. We each had a small piece and despite it being strange to eat it at 8 am in the morning it tasted good. After eating I asked for some water so I could have a wash. I wanted to at least wash one layer of sun cream off before I put another layer on. So, with a small jug of water and a flannel I washed as best I could before slapping on the requisite sun cream ready for the rest of the day. We left about 9 o’clock and with our target to reach the next two mission stations today. After praying on the new site of the church we then headed off for the next station.
We only had to walk up and over a small hill before we could see the next station and once we had walked for about 1 hour we had made it there. After 9 hours on the road from the start of the day we had reached our place for the night Gam Sati. If I had thought I was stared at when in Donkin, compared to here it was nothing. We were sitting down to rest in the church and a large crowd of children gathered outside and took it in turns to peer through the doorway to see the bature. This is not to mention those older and taller children who were able to peek through the windows round the other side of the church to get a different view of their strange visitor. As I sat there I felt a strange weight of responsibility on my shoulders. If I was the only bature these people had ever seen I ought to make a good impression as otherwise the reputation of batures could be ruined forever!! As the group outside the church got bigger I thought I should make an appearance so with camera in hand I went to greet the intrigued locals. I took lots of pictures of the children and as always in places like this they were amazed when I was able to show them their picture on the screen of the camera.
As darkness descended again it was time for the evening meal. But before that I needed to go to the toilet. I wouldn’t normally mention this in my blog, but going to the toilet out in the open when you have had all your movements studied by the locals was interesting. Thankfully, under cover of darkness and after a short walk to some large rocks I found a suitably private location to do the necessary. After sitting round the fire for a while I then made my way to the hut I was sleeping in and once again fell asleep with no problems.
Day Four – Saturday 2nd May
We didn’t have to rise too early again this morning but once again by about 7 am people were up and about and food was prepared for us. We had more Kunun again and some meat. This time I declined the meat as I wasn’t so sure that it was fresh and I didn’t want to risk any stomach upset. By about 9.30 we were on our way to the next station. As we made our way out of the village a large number of the inhabitants walked along with us. We initially thought that were just escorting us out of the village and wishing us well on our way but then one of the men from the village spoke to one of the members of our group. It turns out that the reason they were following us was so they could get a photograph with the Bature!!! So, not wanting to disappoint we assembled on the side of the hill and the villagers crowded round me with some of them wanting to hold my hands and we posed for a photograph. Once this was done we went on our way and the villagers stayed where they were. It’s nice to be appreciated!!
The going was pretty flat to start with. We moved into a flat agricultural area and as crossed it we could see a group of women working in one of the fields. As we approached them there was a hive of activity as they stood in a line and then with shouts and the blowing of a whistle they energetically used their traditional hoes to break up the ground in front of them. It was as if they were in training for the Olympics or something as they rapidly made their way across the field and then the whistle blew and they stopped to rest. They were very excited to see us and one lady used her best English to greet me. Some of our group joined in the hoeing but unfortunately I wasn’t able to as I had developed a very painful shoulder from pumping all the water I needed through my filter, so it would have been too painful. We then continued across the plain and to a river which we crossed easily. We then had the big climb of the day.
This was probably the steepest climb we had during the 4 days and it was difficult going for most of us. I always find that when climbing like that the best thing to do is just to get your head down and keep going as it is very hard work to start again once you stop for a rest. The missionaries who were escorting us to the next station didn’t seem to have the problems we had as they skipped and hopped up the mountain with ease. You must get very fit living in a place like this. We ended up splitting into two groups as the continual rest of the people at the back of the group was taking its toll on those who just wanted to push on to the top and get it over and done with. After we had completed the climb we then had a short walk before we reached the fifth mission station, Bantai. Nonetheless it was another great experience to share a time of worship with this group of fellow Christians.
Day Five – Sunday 3rd May
My last night sleeping a hut was much the same as previously but this time a bit shorter as we were up by 5.30 ready for a 6am departure. However, we had not factored in the hospitality of our hosts and as we were ready to leave they were busy cooking us breakfast. So we waited for it to be ready and then ate the Tuo, soup and chicken that was provided. We then headed out to first visit the church set up by the missionary and then on towards our final destination, the base station where we had left our vehicles.
Most the terrain was supposed to be straightforward and more down than up. However, the weather was really not helping us. The skies were clear, the sun was bright and there was not a breath of wind. We were soon taking on as much water as we could but it didn’t make much difference as we just sweated it out and it clung to our skin unable to evaporate and cool us down at all. At one stage I didn’t know what was beating hardest, the sun on my back, the heart in my chest or the drips of sweat falling off my nose and ears. I felt like I had just got out of a hot shower and not dried myself. It was seriously hard work and all the shade we could find just allowed us to rest but didn’t cool us down. I got to the point where I decided I just needed to keep going. The rests were not really refreshing and they just prolonged the journey so I made a concerted effort just to push on and eventually the terrain began to become familiar and we could see the village. We headed along the track hoping it was the right one and then eventually we could hear the sounds of the market and knew we were in the right place. We walked through the bustling market with traders selling a wide variety of different products and groups of people sitting down under shelters drinking the local brew. The drink was very strong smelling and it seemed that you could probably get drunk just from standing next to it. We made our way out of the market and then we were back at the vehicles. We could rest at last and the shade here was actually cool. We had made it.
We rested here for a couple more hours before the last of our group made it back. Once everyone was back we rested a little more and then loaded up the vans and headed back along the bumpy bush road to the tarred road. We headed into Jalingo where we were going to stay at the half built Taraba DCC office. We went to the Taraba DCC EMS Coordinator’s house and there they provided us with food and drink. The minerals were very welcome to replenish some of the fluids we had lost during the day and the Tuo (again) but this time with draw soup and some fish was good. We then headed to the DCC office and found places to sleep.
Day Six – Monday 4th May
The trekking was over but the journey wasn’t. We now had to make our way back to Jos. I thought the journey would be quite comfortable as it had been on the way here but I hadn’t planned on the extra passengers in the van. There were some missionary children who needed to get back to Jos and the EMS Children’s school there. It made sense that we took them there but it didn’t make for comfortable travelling. There were four of us sitting across three seats so relaxation wasn’t something that we experienced. We had to negotiate the awful road from Jalingo again and then we could make good progress toward Gombe.
As we passed through Adamawa state we stopped at the house of one of the Director’s previous church members. He seemed to be a ‘Big’ man in the area and he was very generous in his hospitality. He brought out 2 crates of canned drinks, a box of bottled water and a crate of minerals, bread, meat and Kunun. It was amazing to have this hospitality from someone I did not know at all but that is what they do in Nigeria. As we left the generosity did not stop as he presented us all with an umbrella, not an expected gift but one I thought would come in very useful at the start of the rainy season.
We then headed towards Gombe. When we reached there we went to the North East Area EMS Coordinator’s house and once again we were given great hospitality as they provided drink and food (you guessed it, more Tuo). We then bid our farewell to the Coordinator and headed for Bauchi and then Jos. We eventually made it to Jos and the Challenge compound by 6.30. It was great to be home and very kindly Joseph had offered to cook dinner for me. The first thing on my list to do though was have a shower. Running water, shower gel and clean clothes. It was fantastic.
What a great experience I had had over the 6 days. And what a great work the EMS missionaries in Donkin Hills do. They are the pastor, teacher and doctor for the people of the community in which they live. And all this is in the middle of nowhere at least a day’s trek from any semblance of what we would know as civilisation. They must be committed fully to the work they do. Now that is what I call REAL missionary work. When I think about it I feel like I am just pretending to be a missionary in the comfortable surroundings of Jos. Praise the Lord for the EMS missionaries in Donkin Hills.
I have put a gallery of photos from the trip on my Picasa site. You can get to it by following the link on the right hand side of this page or the front page. There are about 100 pictures and that has been cut down from the 500+ that I took!!! I hope you enjoy looking at them.
